BEAT THE POLICE
I do not condone breaking the law. But I do believe that some new speed enforcement measures have been introduced by the government solely as a "money grab"; not to increase safety and reduce accidents as they claim. This is especially true with photo radar. You have a right to protect yourself from illegitimate enforcement techniques.
There are many different types of radar. They operate on different frequencies and have different trigger mechanisms. You have probably heard terms like `K',` X', and `Ka band', `instant-on', `laser', or `photo radar'. All of these will be explained.
Without getting into technical terms, a radar works by sending out a signal from the "gun" which reflects off your car (or more precisely, the metal of your car) back to the radar gun. The "gun" measures this signal to determine how fast you were going. They are very accurate if used properly.
There are 5 bands that it operates on. They are the X, K, Ka, Superwide Ka and Laser bands. If you purchase a radar detector and it is missing any of these, you are leaving yourself wide open (however, currently laser is rare). Radar detectors aren't the best way of protecting yourself from radar guns anymore. What a detector basically does is pick up the radar waves the police are transmitting and warn you that there is a radar gun nearby. Radar detectors can pick up a very weak signal; sometimes two to three times further away than the police radar gun can detect you.
However, lately the police have begun using instant-on guns much more. These are guns that are warmed up, and all the operator has to do is point it, pull the trigger and he gets a speed reading before you know it. Since the gun isn't actually transmitting any waves until he pulls the trigger, your radar detector will not pick it up until it is too late. The only defense against this is to hope your detector will pick up the short burst of waves that the police officer aimed at a car in the vicinity. Nevertheless...
Instant-on radars are only found in stationary police vehicles on the side of the road or in ambushes. But this type of speed enforcement is disliked by many officers because it is time consuming. The officer has to park, roll-down their window and "zap" motorists. Most cruiser-mounted radars are constantly on when the police vehicles are in motion or when stationary. If they are stationary, they can just turn on the gun and do paperwork, etc. until the alarm goes off telling the officer that a speeding vehicle is approaching. But, since they are constantly on, it makes it easy for radar detectors to detect them.
People don't usually contest the accuracy of the radar gun, most just plead guilty and pay their fines. Many are not even convinced of their own guilt, but do it anyway. For all you know the gun may not be accurate or the officer may have "clocked" another vehicle thinking it was yours (this is quite common!).
"Beating Police Radar and Laser Traps"
Police can only "clock" you if you are coming directly at them or directly away from them. For every degree angle you are away from them, your speed displayed on the radar gun will decrease, because it can only read motion directly towards or away from the gun, not sideways. This is a very important point. That is why you look for police directly in front of you on the side of the road, on an overpass, etc.
A real controversy, lately, is photo radar. It seems to be stirring up a lot of debates. It is used in selected areas throughout North America. Basically, it is a radar gun mounted in a mini-van that detects your speed and takes a photograph of your vehicle. You are then mailed a speeding ticket with the photo of your car and license plate. Currently, depending on your state, most of them:
1. operate on the Ka or K band at a 22-26 degree angle
2. "clock" you from the front or rear of the van then snap a picture when you
pass in front
3. do not report your conviction to the DMV or your insurance company.
4. can operate when in motion or when stationary
Since photo radar only emits 0.5 to 2.0 milliwatts of microwave energy (compared to 20 to 100 milliwatts from a normal police radar), your radar detector will only pick it up at about 450 feet (the unit snaps a picture at 100 ft). This is a very short distance at highway speeds. To give you an example how effective photo radar is; in a police force of 29 officers, there were 4050 speeding tickets issued for the entire year, (approximately 11 tickets every 24 hours).
A Radar Crew gave out 700 Speeding tickets in only 24 Hours. This is a blatant "money grab" justified by the government under the guise of road safety while they are taking in millions of dollars in revenue.
There is a way to defeat them. If the photo radar unit clocks you from the rear of the van, it calculates (by your speed) where you will be when you pass so it can snap the picture. If you slow down dramatically as soon as you notice the unit, the unit will be taking a picture of where it thinks you will be when you pass the van; but since you have adjusted your speed, the picture will be of a blank road as you will be "behind" the picture area.
If the unit clocks you from the front, you can (if you are attentive), spot the vans on the side of the road and have time to check your speed before passing in front. Remember; you must keep very alert.
"Laser" is another big conversation topic in speed enforcement. There are very few units in service now (about 3,000), but they are tough to beat. It is used in almost every state on a limited basis.
The laser gun is almost like a real gun, in that you have to aim it directly at the car you want to "clock". It uses a narrow, tightly-focused laser beam instead of microwaves like the X, K, and Ka band radar. Unlike radar, which can't distinguish one car from others in close proximity, a laser operator can pick out your car in heavy traffic. Also, unlike radar which fans out and reflects off trees, buildings, signs, and over hills, the laser beam, (which only gets 6 feet wide at 1,000 ft.) is almost impossible to pick up with a detector until you are "clocked". In other words, if your laser detector goes off (excluding false alarms), you have just been hit by a cop aiming at your car.
However, it has been found that powerful lights can sometimes diminish the laser beam's effectiveness long enough for your detector to go off and allow you to check your speed. Weather, such as fog/humidity/cloudiness can reduce the effectiveness of the laser (as low as 100 feet). Also, contoured cars as well as dark cars (such as black, brown, blue) do not reflect the beam as well as more square and lighter colored cars. These characteristics do not apply to radar.
The advantage on our side is that laser is a very time consuming speed enforcement method. The laser beam has to be separately aimed at each car like the instant-on radar guns. But unlike radar, the beam is so thin you literally have to track the moving car for a few seconds to get a reading, making it very difficult.
OK, let's get back to regular X, K and Ka radar bands.
If you are using a radar detector, don't put it on your dash with a baseball cap or kleenex box over it. Cops look for this.
There are myths that putting tin foil in your hub caps or dragging chains from the back of your car will make it harder for the radar to pick up your speed. These are completely false!
However, there are a few things that can disguise your car from radar. One is a stealth bra. It looks like a normal car bra but has materials that absorb radar waves, not allowin them to "bounce" back to the police radar gun as easily. Assuming you are being "clocked" from the front...
Did You Know that you car is Invisible until it hits 1500 feet away!! By that time you have noticed the police car and have checked your speed. Another disguise is the actual car you drive. The radar gun is fooled by fiberglass or composite bodies like Corvettes or kit cars. This material masks the metal so it is harder to pick up your car until you are very close.
Radar needs large quantities of metal to bounce off back to the radar gun with a strong signal. You can use this to your advantage by "masking" your car with others. (diagram C). In this situation, the police officer cannot clock you because the radar will pick up car A which is closer and bounces back a stronger signal. You will not be clocked if you stay behind car B or weave in and out of traffic, moving your way up, but staying behind the car in front of you for as long as possible, for "cover". However, once car B passes the police car, you are in full view of the radar. Hopefully by then, you have noticed the police car and have checked your speed.
In diagram D, the speed of the transport truck will show up on the police radar gun, not you. Even though you are closer to the radar gun, because he has a much larger surface area of metal, the signal returning to the radar gun is much stronger than yours.
How do I avoid "The Big Green Machine?"
How many of us want to give more of our hard earned dollars to the government? Hold up
your hands... Well? Anyone? I didn't think so! So, what are some of the best
ways to avoid seeing this in the mirror?
If you plan on practicing "enhanced vehicular momentum" on a regular basis, take some advice from someone who "practices" every day....
#1: Get a radar detector.
This little piece of equipment is your first line of defense. Learn how to use it and what
all those lights and chips mean. Learn how to tell the difference between false readings
and the real McCoy... Learn how to measure how far off the threat is, just by the way the
unit reacts. A radar detector will detect most all radar signals, and contrary to some
folks, could be worth using as a Lidar detector, too. A good detector can cost as little
as $50. (Mine is a Cobra ESD-6200, cost $40, worth MUCH MORE!)
Which detector to get. Well, it's a matter of
preference more than anything else. Cobra, Valentine, Escort, Whistler, ... the list goes
on and on... two things I do recommend... stick to well known name brands and
get functionality, not flash... All you need is something that
detects X, K, and Ka band (in the US) and maybe Lidar, too. Safety detector are nice, but
very few transmitters exist, so it's mostly worthless.
VG2... also known as Radar detector detectors... Huh?
Yes, the world of military electronic warfare has reached the trenches of Interstate
driving. Police vehicles are now being equipped with a system to detect the use of a radar
detector. Neat huh? So, radar detectors are being equipped with a system to detect when
the police vehicle has a radar detector detector... it's basically a... radar detector
detector detector... inspector... that's too many detectors... (couldn't resist, could I?)
VG2... so far, I haven't been impressed. It does work, but it is also very
prone to false readings. And while it is alarming, it shuts off your radar detection
equipment, so that the police can't detect your detector. Personally, since detectors are
legal, so if he wants to know I've got it... fine with me. I'll cover THAT next
chapter....
BUT, a word of warning. Some of the newer radar
units are equipped with Digital Signal Processing and Frequency Switching. Nice tech
sounding words, but what's it mean? The newer units are able to "switch" between
several different Ka band frequencies. Meaning most radar detectors won't detect the
police unit. So, radar is a good first line of defense.. but it isn't a cure all.
#2: Drive in the middle lane. You have the greatest amount of overall visibility from the center lane, and if you are in traffic, it gives you added defense to radar. Rather than standing out from the others, you are "mixed" in the crowd. Stealth is your friend. It's harder to get an accurate radar reading while in a crowd of cars. I discourage driving in the "outer" lanes. On the left, well, it might not be the "fast" lane... but everyone thinks it is. So, police will be looking for speeders there. The right lane is used by people getting on and off the highway. Keep in mind, your greatest threat of collision is with another vehicle. By being "centered", you have all the advantages offered by either the left or right lanes.... with none of the drawbacks.
#3: Try to be "in the crowd".
Have you ever noticed that most cars travel in bunches? Police officers have. And they
look for the cars that are in front or behind those clusters. Those are the cars that are
speeding. So don't be there... Of course, you are moving faster than the crowd. So,
"jump" from crowd to crowd. Usually, you can get one or two cars to match your
speed as you pull from the front of one crowd to the rear of the next. This is great, it
helps to increase speed along an entire stretch of road. This helps us all.
One more word on this point. Some people advocate a term called "shadowing". It
involves finding someone and then matching their speed and following behind them by about
1/4 mile. I generally do not like this tactic. Instead, drive at a speed YOU are
comfortable with.
#4: Don't weave around. If you are constantly changing lanes, you stand out. Once again, stealth is your friend. What radar can't see, it can't hit. (But this changes completely during rush hour) Also, by weaving around, other drivers can't predict your next move. They get scared. Rightly so. Your greatest threat of collision is with another vehicle... so is theirs. (Getting tired of that phrase yet?)
#5: Avoid having a "bright" colored car. Stealth is your friend. Red, white, yellow stand out... Just be glad you don't have an orange car....
#6: Try to avoid buying a "sporty" car. First, it will attract every police radar unit around. Second, judges assume it's a "sporty" (i.e. speeding) car. Third, the concept of radar... radar is much more accurate against curved shapes (like 747's or Corvettes) but against a "boxy" shape like the F-119 "box" Stealth Fighter, or a nice "rectangular" truck, radar will not be as effective. The difference isn't much, but it could mean a ticket... or not. Remember, stealth is your friend. (Getting tired of this phrase, too?)
#7: CB's... If you don't mind having an extra antenna, and don't mind hearing lots of static while listening to your stereo... CB's are almost as good as a radar detector. Listen for "Bear traps", "White Wrappers", "Cherries", "Eagles", "Red Eyes"... or other terms used to tell you... there is a cop ahead... and he's hot (radar is on). And let others know too...
#8: Flashing headlights on and off. This normally means there is a police car up ahead. "Red eyes" are open and waiting... for you! Please be kind. If you see "red eyes" let the rest of us know. There is NOTHING illegal in "checking" your headlights to make sure they are working. However, use care, gangs use flashing headlights as an initiation, if a car follows you after you flash your lights... look for that police car... now he's your friend... (that cell phone helps too!)
#9: Use common sense. Don't pass police cars faster than by more than 5MPH. Don't drive around without staying aware of what's around you. Police officers aren't stupid. They are highly (sometimes) trained and professional stupid(sometimes). They do want to protect the public. But they also have to make a living, just like all of us. So, be aware, they WILL catch someone... the trick is, to make sure it's not you.
Speeding 210... Advanced Speeding Tactics.
Are you SERIOUS about speeding? Does the idea of driving under 55 MPH make your skin crawl, teeth rattle, and eyes water? If so, hold on tight.... LET'S MOVE!!!
These are the tactics I use, tried and true (usually), to make my 60 mile drive to work last about 45 minutes. That's some serious pushing of the speed limits. But, I have only been caught once... and the officer didn't catch me using radar. (I really hate Lidar!... but I doubt the officer was entirely "honest" in his speed reading.)
Shadowing: Personally, I'm not a big fan of shadowing. The "idea" of shadowing is to pick a car in front of you and "shadow" him. Move just slightly slower than him and stay about a quarter to a half mile behind. If there is a cop running radar, he gets caught and you don't. Unless the cop car is driving behind you. Oops. First, you have to wait around for someone to go faster than you and then have to drop in line behind them. Second, the person you are following might not be thrilled at being followed. Shadowing isn't a bad idea, but it's no guarantee that the person in front of you will get caught before you do. There is always the chance a police car will drop in behind you or will miss the vehicle in front of you, but will be ready next time... ie: for you! It also encourages clumping. While I might advocate being "in the crowd"... DON'T stay there. Remember, your greatest threat of collision is collision with another vehicle. So, spread out a bit... just enough that the road has a steady stream of traffic.
Pushing: This is the tactic of "encouraging" someone (or an entire group) to speed up by 5 or so MPH. The reason it is listed here is that it is an extremely dangerous tactic, and you should not attempt this until you are VERY confident of your abilities AND have the ability to "know" how the other drivers around you will react. Basically, you either tailgate someone in the middle lane such that they (and everyone else) speed up, OR, you find someone that is willing to "race" you. And then you "race" them right back, increasing the overall speed of traffic in the area. This is also a tactic quite commonly used (and denied) by police officers to "force" a motorist into speeding up, at which point they light 'em up and issue a ticket for speeding.Variance: Vary
your driving routes and times. Police officers have to keep a log book. If they miss you
today... they will be ready for you tomorrow. This is my favorite game. On Monday, I leave
for work at 10:30pm. At about 10:45, a police officer sees me going at 85 MPH, but can't
catch me because he's not ready. Tuesday, I leave at 10:15pm... guess who is pulling into
his trap, getting ready for me... BUT I'M 15 MINUTES early!! HEH HEH... he has to watch me
go by again... Wednesday, he's not going to make that mistake again... He's there at
10:00pm waiting for me. But... this time I leave at 11:00pm... about that time, he's
getting bored. So, he starts to leave... and sees me drive by... and realizes that he
missed me again. HEH HEH HEH HEH!!!! Thursday, BY GOD, HE'S MAD!! HE IS
REALLY GOING TO NAIL ME. Except that I leave at 10:00pm... and drive the speed limit.
And I even wave to him as I go by! HEH HEH HEH HEH HEH HEH
HEEEH!!!!!!
Friday... I take I-70 instead of I-270. He never does get me.... and he wasted
all that time trying. So much for HIS quota....
Stealth: A
word here about stealth... Stealth is your...
Yeah Yeah... by now we get the idea. But, what about radar/lidar jammers and
"shields"? Surely that is the best way to be stealthy. NO! No! No! No!
First off, "jammers" that actively transmit are illegal under FCC guidelines.
It's a Federal offense. Better to get a ticket than ten to twenty! The truly
"active" jammers that are powerful enough to actually jam a police radar will
also show up on airport radar, military radar, and will generally be noticed by just about
any radar detector, also. You'll be "invisible" to police radar, but they will
know you are jamming them. Police radar guns have a feature to notify the officer when
jamming is present.
So, what about "passive" jammers or lower level active jammers. Not powerful
enough to defeat police radar. At best, it will give you about one second of extra time.
Meanwhile, the officer's gun is showing a jammer present. Think he's going to let that go?
NO WAY! Don't get me wrong, there are a few jammers that really do what they say they do
(most don't). But they cost over $500. If you can afford to waste that kind of money,
maybe I will change my mind about not accepting your money... send it to me.
Okay, but what about "radar bras" or lidar plate covers. Same thing. The ones
that cost less than $500 are basically worthless. The more expensive ones aren't much
better... and cost some serious cash. In short...
Don't bother with "jammers" and other such "stealth" devices. You
should already be better than that.
Awareness:
Know what is going on around you. If you drive the route you are taking often, note the
places where you see police cars sitting and where they normally have vehicles stopped.
Those are "high risk" areas. Also look for police to be sitting just past an
on/off ramp, since they can sit off the side of the road unseen. Obviously, hills and
curves are also "high risk" areas. Also, keep in mind police departments work in
a "zone" defense. Traffic Patrol Officers are placed into "zones" of
control. They will operate only in a specific stretch of road. Even State patrols will
have an "area". This is why you see a patrol car make a u-turn for no apparent
reason. He has reached the "limit" of his zone. Don't be fooled, he WILL go
farther to catch someone speeding... but he won't go much farther without a good reason to
do so. This is a key piece of information in your driving tactics!
When driving through a high risk area, take your foot off the accelerator and coast, that
simple action will give you a full second in reaction time toward slowing down if
"red eyes" should strike. An important point to know: radar can not
instantly lock onto a vehicle which is changing speed at more that 2 MPH per second. This
can give you a total of two to three seconds to slow down. Which should be enough to drop
you by 10 to 15 MPH... and save you from a ticket.
Understand speed measurement devices: Learn how radar and lidar work. A basic understanding of the abilities and limitations of both is necessary to avoiding getting caught by it. It is also a good idea to know where radar "windows" exist where you are driving. Certain areas are almost radar-proof due to the existance of radar interfering signals. Other areas are natural speed traps due to the fact that they give little to no advanced warning, even to radar detectors. And, the officer might not even be using radar.... or Lidar. There is aircraft, Vascar, Pacing, and even plain ol visual estimation.
First, let me direct you to The Traffic Radar Handbook at http://www.copradar.com/index.html
This site is the best place to find information about how radar and lidar work. It also
has some excellent information on fighting tickets.
If You being stooped and you don't have an excuse
Once you are stopped for a violation you still have a chance to get out of the ticket and this is the best place to do it. You should be warned that you must be a halfway decent actor/actress to use this next one. This also contradicts what I mentionedearlier about being honest but if you rehearse this one enough you will even believe it.The most effective excuse for speeding is that you have to use a rest room and you need togo before you explode. Once you are on the side of the road roll down your window and wavefor the cop to come to your car right way, Do not get out of your car! When the cop arrives at your window act as if you have to relieve yourself right away and ask theofficer if we could do one of the following:
"Let me run into the woods over there so I can relieve myself"
"Is there a rest stop up the road that you can follow me to and write the ticket there so I can relieve myself"?
Either approach puts the cop into a very difficult situation because hecan't prove that you don't have to relieve yourself and it is going to be trouble so he may just let you leave telling you to slow down. This can also be used by another passenger in the vehicle if you are not up to it and the best person to have do it is a female, for obvious reasons. This excuse will not work if you have just passed up anopportunity to stop a few miles back and did not take advantage of it. If the officer lets you go make sure you do stop at the next area and take a 5 minute rest. Remember that you should have an excuse already made up in advance of getting pulled over so it is morebelievable.
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